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</a> In Douz, palm-frond fences attempt to hold back the Sahara, and locals are wrapped in hooded cloaks against blown sand. At the Musテゥe du Sahara, a guide explained nomadic traditions of swaddling bands, tattoos and the camel-hair burnous or cloak. Bedouin brides wear black embroidered robes, and ride a camel pulled by a man who must be called Ali or Mohammed, and accompanied by a child to ensure fertility. The bride is concealed by a palanquin, with only her right hand showing &ndash; the hand of Fatima. Strict rules once governed nomadic life &ndash; a curtain in the tent separated men and visitors from women and children, and the wife communicated with her husband by banging a spoon on a wooden bowl, so that her voice would not be heard. Our guide said that he now lives in the town, but, like everyone he knows, he and his family return to the desert every year to spend several weeks in a traditional Bedouin tent.